Frequently Asked Questions

STAIN REMOVAL

If the STABILO EASYoriginal you used writes with blue ink, then it is standard fountain pen ink. These stains can easily be removed by using an ink eraser.

If the STABILO EASYoriginal writes red or black, water or soap would be the best choice. If you do not achieve the desired result with this, we recommend you buy a stain-remover at your local drugstore and use it according to the manufacturer’s instructions. In this particular case we recommend an oxidizing stain-remover as part of the ink could be removed through strong oxidation.

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Leather:

Being a “natural fibre”, leather usually takes on colourants very easily. Thus colourants soak into the leather and do not just remain on the surface. Color stains are, therefore, almost impossible to remove. Only the abrasion method (using a mild scouring powder or, even better, a scouring milk) may have a chance of reducing or removing any stains. The abrasive effect of the scouring product does, however, damage the surface of the leather somewhat. You should, therefore, be very careful when doing this and, when finished, treat the spot with a leather care product (dubbin or something similar).

Cloths:

The ink in these STABILO products can be rinsed out quite easily. Our ink laboratory recommends that you treat the stain with plenty of water. You should add normal hand-detergent to the water, provided that this is suitable for the material. You should do this as quickly as possible, because the longer the ink has to dry, the more difficult it is to remove.

Clothes can easily be washed in the washing machine at 40°C together with normal washing powder. Please ensure that the textiles can be washed in a washing machine at the recommended temperature.

On furniture or wood flooring:

It is best to wipe the stain immediately with a slightly damp microfibre cloth, until the ink is removed as much as possible. If the ink cannot be removed this way, then carefully rub the stain with a damp cloth and a scouring agent for kitchen and bath. Please be careful not to damage the lacquering of the material. If the spot has turned dull, try to bring back the shine of the spots with a car polisher containing no abrasives.

For untreated wood, the ink is usually absorbed by the wood like aqueous stains and thus it is unfortunately very difficult or hard to be removed. Depending on how deep the ink has penetrated, polishing with an abrasive pad / sandpaper could be successful. It should be noted that the color of the wood may change and may have to be re-sealed or waxed.

On walls (plastered or painted):

Unfortunately, these stains cannot be removed without residue any more, they must be painted over by wall paint. Please dab the stain first with a slightly damp microfibre cloth until no more ink gets detached from the wall.

Caution: When using a too wet cloth, the stain will enlarge.

Then the spot must be primed a sealing primer (DIY store / Painter shop). This procedure is intended to avoid ink to dissolve from the stain through the damp wall color and then to migrate through the wall paint to the surface and thus to become visible again.

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Leather:

Assuming that you have already tried several conventional methods for stain removal (such as soap and water, for example) our advice would be to use ethanol (spirits). The ink contains two pigments which are easily removed with ethanol, although this does not promise complete success. However, you may be able to remove more pigment from your leather by using a spirit-saturated fleece cloth. Avoid rubbing, as the stain might spread this way. When working with ethanol, you must avoid naked flames, as spirits are very flammable. Additionally, we recommend testing the leather’s reaction to the spirit on a hidden part of the leather.

Cloth:

Unfortunately, with these STABILO products it is very difficult or even impossible to remove stains from textiles. However, this short guide may help you nonetheless. First of all, it is important to remove the excess ink dye which has not yet dried into the fibre. To do this, first put a dry, absorbent piece of fleece on top of the stain. Then press the ink out of the cloth from the back with a damp piece of fleece into the dry one. As the dry fleece absorbs the excessive ink immediately, the stain is prevented from spreading further. When you cannot press any more ink into the dry fleece using this method, only the ink which has already soaked in will be left on the fibre of your cloth. This remaining ink can then be removed from the fibre using a stain-remover (like Sil or any other brand from the drugstore, ox-gall soap, etc.) according to the instructions of the detergent manufacturer. In this particular case, we recommend an oxidizing stain-remover, as part of the ink could be removed through strong oxidation.
We recommend you test the detergent on a hidden spot first, to be sure that it will not affect the fibre or the color of your cloth. The level of success depends on the color of the ink as well as the type of fibre. In general, cotton and synthetic fibers are more easy to clean than wool or silk fibers. White spirit or other solvents have no effect here.

If the reverse side is not accessible, you should not try to absorb the excessive ink with a dry fleece-sheet but rather attempt to dab it off with a slightly dampened piece of fleece. Avoid rubbing, as the stain might spread this way.

Then wash the material at the appropriate temperature.

On furniture or wood flooring:

It is best to wipe the stain immediately with a slightly damp microfibre cloth, until the ink is removed as much as possible. If the ink cannot be removed this way, then carefully rub the stain with a damp cloth and a scouring agent for kitchen and bath. Please be careful not to damage the lacquering of the material. If the spot has turned dull, try to bring back the shine of the spots with a car polisher containing no abrasives.

For untreated wood, the ink is usually absorbed by the wood like aqueous stains and thus it is unfortunately very difficult or hard to be removed. Depending on how deep the ink has penetrated, polishing with an abrasive pad / sandpaper could be successful. It should be noted that the color of the wood may change and may have to be re-sealed or waxed.

On walls (plastered or painted):

Unfortunately, these stains cannot be removed without residue any more, they must be painted over by wall paint. Please dab the stain first with a slightly damp microfibre cloth until no more ink gets detached from the wall.

Caution: When using a too wet cloth, the stain will enlarge.

Then the spot must be primed a sealing primer (DIY store / Painter shop). This procedure is intended to avoid ink to dissolve from the stain through the damp wall color and then to migrate through the wall paint to the surface and thus to become visible again.

More questions? Write to us!

Special note for STABILO woody 3 in 1: 

We would like to point out that although the STABILO woody 3 in 1 is aquarellable (water-soluble), it cannot necessarily be washed out. This very much depends on the type of fabric and woody color) Quite often misleading information is given, even in specialist shops, or the facts are simply mixed up.

Unfortunately, in particular the colors 370 (erika) and 385 (violet) permeate many surfaces more strongly (including radiator paint and skin). STABILO woody 3 in 1 colors can be wiped off smooth surfaces (e.g. glass) with a damp cloth. If traces are still visible, put some standard liquid scouring agent on a soft damp cloth and rub them off. To remove color residues from skin you could also use pumice stone as it rubs off the upper layer of the skin and therefore reduces the coloring. Please note: Generally spoken all STABILO woody 3 paints on porous (e.g., wood) and also soft materials and surfaces (e.g., rubber boots) are bad or not washable. Please understand that we do not assume liability or guarantee for this.

Coloring pencils on skin:

The pencil has not been developed for cosmetic purposes and should therefore not be used as make-up (usage on skin) or for coloring hair.

If the color cannot be completely removed from the skin using a damp cloth, we recommend using standard hand cleaning paste for strong stains, or a facial scrub (which is less likely to irritate delicate skin). Alternatively it could also help to use a pumice stone to rub off the upper layer of the skin and therefore reduces the coloring. As skin can be irritated by this, you should rinse with clean water immediately after and apply moisturizing cream to the skin.

Coloring pencils on material:

With intense staining, dab with a damp micro-fibre cloth until no more color comes off the material. Then wash the material at the appropriate temperature.

If necessary, pre-treat with ox gall soap or special stain sprays (caution: this is not suitable for every material, please observe instructions on/in the pack!). Traces may nevertheless remain, depending on the type of fibers or mix of material.

Coloring pencils on leather:

Dab with a micro-fibre cloth until as much color has been removed as possible. If traces of color can still be seen on smooth leather, try carefully rubbing on a little liquid scouring agent for kitchen and bathroom with a damp cloth without damaging the finish.

Coloring pencils on radiators:

Radiator paint is a special type of paint which is subject to strong changes in temperature and therefore contains a high level of plasticisers to prevent the paint cracking. The plasticisers do not leave the paint with a hard, smooth surface, but make it easier for coloring pencil pigments to be absorbed. Swift action is called for here! The marks left by the coloring pencils should be wiped or dabbed away immediately with a damp cloth. If traces remain, rub them away using a damp cloth and standard liquid scouring agent for kitchen and bathroom.

Coloring pencils on furniture or wood flooring:

It is best to wipe the stain immediately with a slightly damp microfibre cloth, until the ink is removed as much as possible. If the ink cannot be removed this way, then carefully rub the stain with a damp cloth and a scouring agent for kitchen and bath. Please be careful not to damage the lacquering of the material. If the spot has turned dull, try to bring back the shine of the spots with a car polisher containing no abrasives.

For untreated wood, the ink is usually absorbed by the wood like aqueous stains and thus it is unfortunately very difficult or hard to be removed. Depending on how deep the ink has penetrated, polishing with an abrasive pad / sandpaper could be successful. It should be noted that the color of the wood may change and may have to be re-sealed or waxed.

Coloring pencils on walls (plastered or painted):

Unfortunately, these stains cannot be removed without residue any more, they must be painted over by wall paint. Please dab the stain first with a slightly damp microfibre cloth until no more ink gets detached from the wall.

Caution: When using a too wet cloth, the stain will enlarge.

Then the spot must be primed a sealing primer (DIY store / Painter shop). This procedure is intended to avoid ink to dissolve from the stain through the damp wall color and then to migrate through the wall paint to the surface and thus to become visible again.

We hope that these tips help with the removal of the marks and must point out that we can accept no responsibility for damage resulting from the actions described above.

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If a highlighter ink stain has already completely dried, it will be difficult to do anything more than only to reduce the intensity of the stain. The key to successful stain removal is to act fast: even waiting just a few minutes after the ink stain has been made can reduce the chances of completely removing the stain. The type of fibers and their pre-treatment will also have a major influence. After all, the colourants in the highlighter inks are textile dyes that were developed for good fibre adsorption. The ink is an emulsion ink (similar to wall paint) which, once dried, is no longer water-soluble because the plastic emulsion then cross-links.

With a fresh highlighter ink stain, it is important to remove the excess ink which has not yet been absorbed into the fibers while it is still moist. This is done by putting a piece of dry, absorbent fleece on the stain and using a damp piece of fleece applied to the rear side of the material to press the ink out of it and into the dry fleece. The dry fleece immediately absorbs and wicks away the excess ink, which prevents the stain from spreading further. When no more ink can be pressed into the dry fleece using this method, only the ink which has already soaked into the fibers will be left. It is important that the material is then washed immediately. Some customers report treating the material with ox-gall soap before washing it, with significantly improved results.

More questions? Write to us!

Unfortunately, with these STABILO products it is either very difficult or even impossible to remove stains from textiles. However, this short guide may help you nonetheless. Assuming that you already tried several conventional methods for stain removal (such as soap and water, for example) our advice would be to use ethanol (spirits). The ink contains two pigments which are easily removed with ethanol, although this does not promise complete success. Yet you may be able to remove more pigment from your cloth/leather by using a spirit-saturated fleece cloth. Avoid rubbing, as the stain might spread this way. When working with ethanol you must avoid naked flames, as spirits are very flammable. Additionally, we recommend testing the material’s reaction to the spirit on a hidden part of the cloth/leather.

More questions? Write to us!